Corset and the like



1945- G. E. HAWES 2,369,459

CORSET AND THE LIKE Filed Oct. 30, 1945 IN T R EE RBE YfAwas.

ATTORNEY Patented Feb. 13, 1945 t Gcorgej E, Ilawes, Bridgeport, Conn.

Application October 30, 1943, Serial No. 508,391

12 Claims. cra ts) The present invention relates to-an improvemerit infoundation garments, such as corsetsor" the like, and is an improvementover the invention disclosed in the patent to George E. Hawes;

for Corset or the like, No.-l,83'7,865, granted December 22,1931Qreissued August 7, 1934, Reissue No. 19,264. Inthis patent there isdisclosed a garment including front and back portionseach consisting ofseparately formed upper and lower vertically offset overlappedtelescoping parts and relatively wide elastic side: portions interposedas laterally yieldable non-telescopic spacersbetween the front and backportions. According to the invention disclosed in this patent, the upperandlower parts of the front and back portions are adaptedto maintainindependently their positions on the body upon relative movement of thebody below the waistline, whereby the overlapping portionshave'telescoping action to expand and contractthe front and back porytions when thesurfaces of thefront and back of. the wearer arelengthened and shortened on assuming different postures, as for instancestanding, sitting, and bending forwardly or back wardly. The upper andlower telescoping parts" of the back of the garment, as disclosed inthis patent, include vertically disposed staysextend-" ing substantiallytheir full heights, so that relatively long portions of these staysextend along I the overlapping parts, substantially to the lower edge ofthe upper part and theupper edge of,

the lower part. Thereis a tendency in the underneath overlapped portionof the lower part, where the stays are tightly confined beneath theoverlapped portion of the upper part, for the overlapped portionstopress against each other with considerable friction, astheymoverelatively to each other during the expansion and contraction action,and alsofor the ends of the stays towear through the ends of the staypockets.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a foundation garmentstructure having the advantages of the invention disclosed in thispatent, and whichuat the same time has a more freely acting contractionand expansion movement in the back section of the garment withoutfrictional pressure between the upper and out strain on the diaphragm;

each section being contiguously ofiset from the other and not overlappedas in theabove referredto patent. It is furtherproposed to provide anupwardly arched slitbetween the upper 1 and lower relatively movableparts substantially intersecting the waistline .and having its endsanchored at each side belowthe waistline, to the end that the lineofpull from back toefront against the diaphragm is broken sothat'elongation of the garment may take place freely with- A furtherobject is to provide a garment have ing a band portion underlying theadjacent marginal portions of the upper and lower back parts, andarranged so asto embracetheback of the wearer substantially at thewaistline, whereby this band portion remains in a relativelyfixedposition as the wearer assumes various postures,

, ment.

thus providing a fixed protective surface between I the fiesh of thewearer and the movable upper and lower parts of theback section of thegar- )A further object is to provide a garment having a fixed back bandportion substantially at the waistline, and wherein vertical stays areprovided to sustain this band against wrinkling and verticalcontraction, and to providea smo'othver tically extending surfaceoverwhich therelatively movable upper and lower parts of the garment areadapted to move towardand away from each other as the wearer assumesdifferent postures.

A further object is to provide a garment wherein the upper and lowerrelatively movable parts i of the back section of the garment areprovided with vertical stays, extending substantially their fullheights, ,these stays being free from any superimposed overlappingportionsof thegarment, so that frictional pressure between therelatively movable parts and upon the flesh of the wearer is eliminated,andfthe tendencyfor the ends of the stays to wear throughthestaypocketsis reduced toaminim i It, is further proposed to provide agarment wherein the upper and lower parts of theback section areprovided with stays extending sub- I stantially their full height andwhich cooperate lower relatively movable parts and upon the flesh of thewearer.

It is a further object to provide agarment wherein .the contracting andexpanding back structure'is relatively smooth; and to this end it isproposed to provide upper and lower rela-j tively movable parts disposedin the same plane,

with a fixed waist engagingbandhaving fixed vertically arranged stays,so that the contractable and expandable garment backis provided withvertically extending stays for itsfull height,

and at the same time ,the wearer is protected,

, throughthe interposition of the fixed band and 7 its fixed staysbetween, the wearer and the relatively movable" upper and, lower backparts,

and eye fastener secured along its edge for cooperation with the hookstrip IS.

The back section of the garment'comprises an upper part 26, preferablyformed of a central and two side portions secured together alongverticalseams 21-21, its substantially vertical side edges beingsecured to therearward edges of the side sections along seams 28-28. The central portion of the upper back part 26 is provided with a. triangularhorizontally elastic gusset insert 29 having its point end terminatingshort of the with the upper end of the side fastening shown. I

in open position.

Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of the garment; also; shown in flattenedrelation, and with portions.

of the upper and lower back sections broken away.

Fig. 3 is a vertical sectionaliview, takenzalongq. the-line 33 of Fig.2, the garment beingshown,

in the same flattened relation as illustrated in Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a side elevation,showing th garment.

as worn and with. the wearer in standing posture. Fig. 5 is a similarview showing the wearer in. sitting posture.

Fig. 6 is a similar View showing the. wearer in: forwardbendingposture... I

Similar reference 7 characters indicate. corre,-,

sponding parts throughoutthe several figures. of.

the drawing.

Referring to the drawing, the. foundation gar.- ment, according to theillustrated exemplary embodiment of the invention, comprises a frontsection, preferably formed of a central panel I0 and side panels I lllgof non-elastic material-secured together along vertically extendingseams l.2--.l2, and to the upper edges of which are secured the:

lower edges of the. brassire portions. l.3-|3..

Centrally of the lower edgeof the central panel, ldther is provided a.horizontally elastic tri-- angular gusset insert [4.

Upon the, underside of the front section, and

lower edge. The lower edge of the upper back part is arrangedsubstantially in proximity to the waistline and is arched upwardlybetween its ends; which are anchored along the seams 28-28 at pointsbelow the waistline while the intermediate arch extends to or slightlabov the waist- 11118.1. A suitable: binding is secured over thisextending from a point substantially in line with the lower edges ofthebrassire portions. to a line substantially in line with the. upperend. of the.

gusset insert l4, there is provided a substantially rectangular shapedinner l'in'er member 15, secured at its vertical edges along theseams l2and unsecured along its upper and lower edges. each side of its centralvertical line and in inwardly spaced relation to the seams l 2' theinner liner is provided with substantially vertically arranged staysl6|6 disposed in' stay pockets The front section is connected along onevertical edge by a seam IS with the side section at one side of thegarment, and is connectedat its. other vertical edge to the other sidesection'by" suitable fastener means, as for instance the hook and eyestrips l3 and 20 asillustrated, or by=s1ide fasteners, lacings, or thelike. The side sections each comprise an upper panel portion 2 I, formedof non-elastic material andext'ending-from the upper edgeof the garmentto a point substantially midway betweenv the lower edge oi the brassireportionand the waistline, its lower transverse edge being connected bya. seam. 22 to the upper.

edge of aforwardly arranged. strip portion 2.3,.

formed of non-elastic materiahand to theupperedge of a horizontallyelastic-portion 24 secured. along its forward vertical edge by a seam 25to the edge of the strip portion 23. The side, section at one side of,the garment is. secured to-the. front section by the seam l8, while theside section, at.

the other side has theeye. strip 20 oiithe hook arched lower edge.

-'I'he' lower part 3| of the back section is preferably formedofacentral and two; side portions secured along vertical seams 323z2, thecentral portion being. substantially wider than the central-portion ofthe upper backpart, so that the. seam 3-2-32 are outwardly offset a.substantial. distance from the, seams 21.2'l of the upper part.

The. side. edges of the lower section are secured to the. side sectionsby the seams 28..28j,, which v extend continuously from the upper to,the. lower edge of the garment. 'Ifheupper edge of the lower.

back part. 3| is. arched to conform to. the lower.

edge of. the upper part. its ends being anchored along theseams 28.--28,. at substantially the same points, andnormally abuts; this loweredge in the standing posture of thewearer. A suitable bind-.

ing 33 issecuredo-ver this arched upper edge...

Beneath the, upper and lower back parts and v in. position. to i beengaged. substantially along, its,

medial line inline with the. waistline of thewearer there is provided a.band portion '34, secured at:

its side edgesalong the seams 28-48,. the. lower edge. of thisbandportionbeingarched upwardly.

and normally arranged: in substantially parallel downwardly spacedrelation to. the. slit opening; between the arched. edges of the upperand lower.

back parts, while its upper edge is arched downwardly and isspacedupwardly at itscenter from the slit-opening a substantially equaldistance from: the downward spacing of it lower edge. Along each of.the; seams 28- 28there are provided. double stays. 35 and" 36 disposedinstay. pockets 3.!3 1,. and extending, from the. upper edge of thegarmentto a point. approximately in line with. the waistline. The upperbackpart is. provided along each of its seams 21 with double stays 38and 39 provided in stay. pockets. 40-40,

and extending substantially the full .height of this.

upper back part. Along each of the; seams 3 2- of the. lower back part3|. there. are provided; double stays 4.! and 42: disposed in stay.pockets .413--.4 3

and extending substantially thefull height offit hi's.

part... these stays being outwardly offset from the stays of the upperback part. parallel relation between the'two series of double staysx lland'42 of the lower back part there are provided a pair of spacedparallel single stays 44-44 disposed in stay pockets 43-45; these singlestays being inwardly offset at their upperends' from the double stays38'and' 39 of the upper back part.

Theband portion 34 is' provided at a point in wardly offset from thestays ofiboth' 'the' upper and'lower backsections withapairof'spacedparg" allel single stays. 46-46 disposedjinstay pockets;

In substantially 41-41, and which'sustain this band portion againstwrinkling and vertical contraction.

Shoulder straps and garters49are secured respectively upon the upper andlower edges of the garment. I

. .In the back section ofthe garment the disposition of the edges of theupper andlower parts, with the adjacent arched edges forming a dividingslit substantially in the region of the waistline, is such that uponelongation or shortening of the body when assuming. different posturesone part will not be pulled or pushedby the part of the body engaged bythe other part, and as the upper and lower parts have free relativemove-- ment, without the frictional resistance that might be. producedby the overlapping of one part with the other part, there is norestraining action whatever imposed by one partupon the other.

The waistline may be considered as a fixed or neutral region of the bodyupon assuming different postures, the lengthening and shortening of thebody takin place above and below the waistline, and the arrangement ofthe band. portion 34 across the waistline in such position that it alsoremains fixed or neutral upon lengthening, and shortening of the bodyprovides a fixed protective layer between the body and the contiguouslyadjacent portions of the upper and lower back parts eral line of thediaphragm, and which ,areanchored at. the ends of the slit between theupper and lower parts at points below the waistline.

The arrangement allows the lower back part of.

in the region of the waistline, and over which these relatively movableupper and lower back;

parts may move as the wearer assumes different postures. Hence, there isno direct sliding. friction between the relatively movable parts of thegarment and the body of the wearer, the 'upper able lower part movingupwardly and downward- 1y through its engagement with the back below thewaistline upon elongation and shortening of the body, the contiguousportions of the upper and lower back parts above and below the slit, andwhich overlie the region of the waistline, sliding freely over thefixedband 34 interposed between theserelatively movable contiguousportions and the garment to expand freely without pressure on thediaphragm. This advantage is particularly enhanced inthe present garmentby the arrangement of the fixed back engaging band 34 disposed acrossthe waistline and directly in lateral line with the inner liner l5provided in the front section of the garment and engaging directly overthe diaphragm, the combined actionof the inner liner l5 and the band 34connected by the elastic side sections of the garment, providing ayieldable body encircling supporting band affording substantial supportfor the diaphragm from the waistline at the back, this additionalsupport substantially eliminating any tendency for the upper and lowerparts of the back section to exert direct diagonal pull upon thediaphragm upon assuming different postures.

The arrangement of the stays in the band por tion 34 is such that thereis no tendency for this fixed portion of the garment to wrinkle orcontract vertically, thu providing a firm and smooth support for therelatively movable portions of fixed band 34, provide complete verticalstiffenthe fixed or neutral waistline surface of the body.

As the upper and lower back parts do not overlap the back of the garmentpresents a smooth continuous surface, and there is no tendency to bulgeI or wrinkle such as is the case where oneof the relatively movableparts overlaps the other, causing the latter to be compressed andrestricted in its movement and producing not only frictionalpressureupon the body surface but alsoimpeding the lengthening and shorteningaction of the garment.

In this connection it is pointedout that no additional pressure on thediaphragm of thewearer is created as the wearer assumes differentpostures such as standing, sitting or bending, and

which pressure always occurs with the usual corgarment, by breaking thediagonal line of pull, which may be considered as extending from theupper front portion across the side of the wearer to the lower backportion of the corset, this breaking of the diagonal line beingaccomplished by providing separate relatively movable upperand lowerback parts which are divided substantially along the waistline and insubstantially the latback parts have free movement to the ing to thegarment and at the same time there is no tendency for the adjacent endsof the stays to exert, frictional pressure between the upper and lowerparts and upon the body. Furthermore by eliminating such frictionalpressure vertical strain uponthestays is relieved and the usual tendencyfor the stays to wear and break I through the ends of the stay pocketsis minimized. In Fig. 4 the garment is illustrated in the,

standing posture ofthe wearer, the arched edges of the upper and ,lowerpartscof the back sections being contiguously adjacent and these partsbeing disposed in the same plane.

Fig. 5 shows the wearer in sitting posture, the lengthening of the bodybelow the waistline causing the lower back part which clings to the Ilower part of the body tomove downwardly away from the upper back part.Upon resuming a standing posture the lower back part will move freely tothe position shown in Fig. 4, the upper arched edge moving over thesurface of thefixed band 34. i i In Fig. 6 the wearer is shown in aforward bending posture, the back of the body. being lengthened bothabove and below the waistline and causing both the upper and lower backparts to move respectively therewith, the arched edges of the upper andlower parts having free movement over the surface of the band 34. Uponresuming a standing posture the upper and lower illustrated in Fig. 4. 1i

It will be understood that diiferent arrangementsof the band 34 may beresorted to while still obtaining some of the advantage of the inventionand without departing from the principle and scope thereof. For instancesuch band may be provided exteriorly, or both interiorly and exteriorly.

I have illustrated and described a preferred and satisfactory embodimentof the invention, but it will be understood that changes may be madetherein, within the spirit and scope thereof, as defined in theappendedclaims. i

position i Having thus described my invention, what-I claim and desire:to: secure by Letters: Ratentis? 1;.In1 a foundation garment, a backsection comprising an upper part adapted; to: engage the body above the:waistline, and a lower pant adapted to engage the body below the:waistline, saidupper and lower parts being verticallycit-- setone withrespect to the other to: provide a transversely extending slit"substantially at the waistline, and having their. contiguous edges.

abov and below said slit parallel to each other andsubstantiallyabutt'edin the standing posture of" the wearer.

ZEIn' a: foundation" garment, a back section 7 comprising an upper partadapted to engage the body above the waistline, and" a lower' partadapted to engage the body below the waistline, said" upper and lowerparts being vertically onset one with respect to the other to provide atransversely extending slit substantially at the waistline, and havingtheir contiguous edges above" and below said slit parallel to' each.other and Substantially abutted in the standing posture of the wearer,the" ends. of said contiguous edges being fixed relativelyto each otherat points below the waistline.

3." In a" foundation garment; a back' section 7 comprising an upper partadapted to engage the body above the waistline, and" a lower part;

adapted to engage the body below the waistline, saidiupper andlower'partsjbei'ng vertically offset one with respect to. the other toprovide a transversely. extending slit substantially at the" waistline,and having their contiguous edges above and below said slit parallel toeach other and substantially abutted in the" standing posture.

of the wearer, the ends of said contiguous edges being fixed relativelyto each other at points be low thewaistline, and said contiguous edgesbeing arched upwardly between said fixed ends.

4. In a foundation garment, a back section comprising an'upperpartadapted to engage the body above the waistline, a lower part adaptedtoengage the body belowthe waistline; said upper and lower parts beingvertically offset one with respect to the other to provide atransversely extending; slit substantially at the'waistline, and atransversely extending band portion at the waistline having its'uppertransverse edge disposed between: theupper and lower edges of.

said upper back part and its lower transverse edge'disposed' betweenthe. upper and loweredges.

of said lower back part.

5. In a foundation garment, a back section.

comprising an upper part adapted to engage the body above the waistline,a lower part adapted" to engage the body below the waistline, said upperand lower parts being vertically ofiset one with respect to the other toprovide a transversely extending slit substantially at the waistline, atransversely extending band portion at the waistline.

having its upper transverse edge disposed between the upper and loweredges of saidupp'er back part and its lower transverse edge disposedbetween the upper" and lower edges of said lower back part, verticallyarranged stays in said upper and lower parts extending. substantiallytheir full heights, and vertically arranged stays in said band portionlaterally offset from saidstays-oi said upper and lower parts andextending'at their ends above and below the: contiguous endsof said.

stays of said upper and lower parts.

6. In a foundation garment, a. back section comprising'an-upper p'art'adapted to engage the seesaw enga the: body below." the? waistline;said. upper and lower parts: being; vertically offset one with respect;to. the: other: to provide a-transversely extending. slit substantiallyat. the waistline; and

a transversely extending band portion underlying said? upperand lowerparts at thel waistline v having. itsv upper transverse edge disposed between the upper. and lower edges of. said upper back partiand. its lowertransverse edge disposedbetween the: upper and lower edges of said lowerback. part.

7 In' a foundation: garment, a back section comprising an upper partadapted to engage the body above: the waistline, a lower part adapted toupwardly between said fixed ends, and a transversely extending bandportion underlying said upper and lower parts at the waistline having:its upper transverse edge arched downwardly and disposed between theupper and lower edges of said upper back part" and its lower transverse?edge-arched upwardly anddisposed between the upper and lower edges ofsaid lower back part.

8. A; foundation garment comprising in combi'natibn, a: front section,side sections secured" along their vertical forward edges to the sideedges of said front section and a back section.

secured" along its vertical edges to the vertical rearward edges of saidside sections and com prising an upper part adapted to engage. the bodyabove the waistline, alower part adapted to engage the body below thewaistline, said upper and lower parts being vertically offset'on'e withrespectto the other to provide a transversely extending slitsubstantially at thewa'istline, and

, edges of said" front section, and a back section a transverselyextending band portion at the waistline having its upper transverse edgedisposed between the upper and lower edges of said! upper back part andits lower transverse edge disposed-between the upper and lower edges'ofsaid l'ower' back part.

9. A foundation garment comprising in conibination, a front section,side sections secured along their vertical forward edges to the sidesecured along its vertical edges to the vertical. rearward edges of saidside sections and comprising an upper part adaptedto engage the bodyabove thewa'istline, a lower part adapted-to ens gage the body below thewaistline, said upper and lower parts being vertically ofiset one with.respect to the other to provide a transversely extndingsl'itsubstantially at the waistline, and a transversely extending.bandportion underlying said". upper" and lower. partsat the waistlinesebody above the waistline, a lower part adapted to cured at itsvertical side edges. to the vertical rearward edges of said sidesections, havi'ngits upper transverse edgedisposed betweenthe upper andlower edges ofsaid upper back part-and its lower transverse edgedisposed between theupperand lower. edges of saidulowerv back. part.

10 A=f=oundation garment" comprising in combination,. a front. section,sidev sections secured along, theirv vertical forward. edges to the sideedges. of saidirontlseotion, and" a back. section.

secured'al'ong its vertical edges to the vertical rearward edges of saidside sections and compris ing an upper part adapted to engage the bodysaid upper back part andits lower transverse edge arched upwardly anddisposed between the upper and lower edges of said lower back part.

11. A foundation garment comprising in combination, a front section, aninterliner within said frontsection secured at its vertical edges andunsecured at its upper and lower transverse edges and adapted to engageover the diaphragm of the l wearer, side sections secured alongtheirvertical forward edges to the side edges of said front section, and aback section secured along its vertical edges to the vertical rearwardedges of said 4 side sections and comprising an upper part adaptedtoengage the body above the waistline, a lower part adapted to engage thebody below the waistline, said upper and lower parts being verticallyoffset one with respect to the other to provide a transversely extendingslit substantially at the waistline, and a transversely extending bandportion at the waistline having itsupper transverse edge disposedbetween the upper and lower edges of said upper back part and its lowertransverse edge disposed between the upper and lower edges of said lowerback part;

l 12. A foundation garment comprising :in combination, a front section,an interliner within said front section secured at its vertical edgesand unsecured at its upper and lower transverse edges and adapted toengage over the diaphragm i of the wearer, side sectionssecured alongtheir vertical forward edges to the side edges of said front section,and aback sectionsecured along its vertical edges to the verticalrearward edges of said side sections and comprising an upper partadapted to engage the bodyabove the waistline, a lower part adapted toengage the body below the waistline, said upper and lower parts beingvertically offset one with respect to the other to provide atransverselyiextending slit,

substantially at the waistline, and having their contiguous edges aboveand below said slitarched upwardly and anchored at each end at pointsbelow the waistline, and a transversely rextend ing band portion at thewaistline having its upper transverse edge disposed between the upperand lower edges of said upper back part and its lower transverse edgedisposed between the upper lower edges ofsaid lower back part.

GEORGE E. HAWES.

and

